00:00The video will be long, so make yourself comfortable.
00:04I was honestly surprised by your reaction to these nails, they're just pecking.
00:08There were so many comments and oddly even more saves.
00:11And here we have two big fingers, there are stars, because they're really pecking,
00:17and their cuticles and matrix area are also pecked at.
00:20All this leads to inflammation and soreness.
00:23Well, we'll go over all of this separately now.
00:26This is our home cover, and I've already removed all the rhinestones.
00:30The nails weren't done in Kazan, but she's my regular client, she went to Sochi and brought them back to
00:36me.
00:37And here they are.
00:38And so, the first part of the video is dedicated to how you can lift a downward growing nail without
00:44adding extra material.
00:46The whole secret and trick is just to place the file under the nail, like I did at the very
00:52beginning,
00:53and simply start filing.
00:55And just a little at an angle, about 25-30 degrees approximately.
01:00We'll file off the hooked part to make straight parallels.
01:04And all this needs to be done before starting the removal.
01:06Well, of course, unless there are some serious detachments, right?
01:10So, I lifted all of this, then I removed the coloured part, and now I'm using a file.
01:15A 100 and 180 grit to 100 side.
01:19I was removing the unnecessary thickness and started creating a beautiful shape.
01:24We tweaked it from the inside, refined it with a file, and shaped it under the nails.
01:29Notice that the lower parallels are parallel.
01:31And now let's talk about nails that can't be lifted using this method.
01:35Because it's so curved down, that only gel, acrygel, polygel, or whatever you prefer, including acrylic, will help you here.
01:44Of course, I tried here as well, but during the process, I realized that all my efforts were just in
01:49vain.
01:49It's useless.
01:50With those kinds of manipulations, you can't lift anything there.
01:53Because the nail is just like a hawk's beak, curving very strongly downward.
01:57Honestly, I don't know how they filed it like that there, but overall, the coating itself is done pretty well.
02:02Yes, the architecture suffers, but everything, including the rhinestones, stayed on.
02:07Everything's fine, but the technician doesn't know how to lift nails like that.
02:11Maybe she didn't have time, didn't want to, or had other reasons.
02:14And now let's get back to our thumb.
02:16Besides the fact that it's growing who knows where, it's just living its own life.
02:19So to speak, it's going against the system, not following the rules.
02:22It also has a quirk.
02:24This nail is very picked at, she picks at it herself.
02:27It's not any kind of fungus.
02:28Exactly, exactly, absolutely 100%, really, just not at all, not in any way.
02:34She has a strange habit of nervously picking at her cuticle with her index finger.
02:39Now I'm removing and opening the detachments.
02:42These are injuries, constant, systematic injuries, that she inflicts on herself.
02:47So the nail grows all bumpy and wavy because of this, and when you flip it over...
02:52Well, if there's a dent on top, there will naturally be a bump underneath.
02:56And because of all this, the material peels off quite a lot.
03:00So apparently in Sochi, they didn't clean anything up either.
03:03And that's why I had to open everything up, clean it out, remove and pull everything out,
03:07so there wouldn't be any unpleasant consequences.
03:10You can see the grooves very clearly, these transverse ones, across the nail.
03:15And let's also pay attention to the lunula, the moon, see how big and healthy it is.
03:21I'll wipe this off, degrease it for visibility, then show and explain it to her.
03:27Oh no, not now, a little later, I'll show that separately in a moment.
03:30I just got a bit mixed up with the steps.
03:32Now, while we're moving on to another nail, which is about the same shape,
03:37we also carefully do the same thing symmetrically.
03:39Push the cuticle down, remove any hooked parts, if that's even a word.
03:44Basically, we remove them.
03:45This unpleasant part that grows downward, we remove it as much as possible without losing too much length.
03:52Next, we remove it.
03:54We remove all the excess material, also file away anything inside that's in the way,
03:59and clean up all these separations.
04:01This peeking is much deeper than before, likely with the right hand,
04:05because it's more convenient, that's my understanding.
04:08There was also a serious preventive conversation about this, not for the first time,
04:14but she promised, swore and vowed that she wouldn't do it anymore.
04:18In the meantime, we're filing the top, meaning the upper part of the architecture,
04:23shaping it as best as we can.
04:25We can also see some lifting there.
04:28We start opening all of this up again.
04:30Nothing should be left untouched.
04:32Nothing should remain unfiled.
04:35Sorry, I'm getting confused.
04:37It's 2am and I'm recording audio.
04:39Also, we're back to that finger.
04:41Now I'm showing her Lunala, which she has, and right now I'm showing how much it's exposed.
04:46This is the nail bed from her picking at it, and the matrix is very close, so I can't give
04:52her a proper good manicure.
04:54Even though there's all sorts of stuff packed under the cuticle, if I go in there I'll just cause her
04:59another injury,
05:00so my movements and actions will be as superficial as possible.
05:03Now I need to clean up what I can, and it won't be a wow effect.
05:07I always explain to the client that by doing this, they limit my abilities, and they limit their own chances
05:15of getting a good quality manicure.
05:17So I could do better, but right now, to avoid causing harm, I won't go in there.
05:21I'll clean it up as best as I can, shake off the dust, trim a little, and we'll leave it
05:27at that.
05:28By the way, we also won't be putting any coating under the cuticle on the big toes, because I can't
05:33clean it properly there.
05:34There's something strange left there, kind of like calluses.
05:40And of course, it won't be possible to apply anything evenly there, neither base, nor gel, nor polish, nor anything
05:45else.
05:45So we'll still leave about half a millimeter from the cuticle, that way there will probably be less trouble.
05:52Here's our second finger, where I'm at least trying to move it, though I know I can't, it's just a
05:57mess there.
05:58Right here, there's just a callus, like a heel callus, right on the finger, on the hand.
06:03Yeah, I always try to do this from the inside, at least try to drill it out somehow.
06:08I don't even know what word to use here, basically we're trying to dig a tunnel there, but so far
06:13it's all been unsuccessful.
06:15Let's clean it up.
06:17We'll keep the client updated throughout.
06:19I never get tired of doing this, I lecture everyone, I never lose hope, I always keep going, thinking that
06:25maybe my advice will help someone.
06:28Because I just don't see any point in such self-sabotage.
06:31It doesn't do any good at all, so why do it?
06:34Everyone knows if you put your leg under a circular saw, you'll lose it and won't get another, that's not
06:40good.
06:41When someone knows picking their nails is bad, but keeps doing it, it's like sticking your leg in a circular
06:47saw.
06:48So it's a completely illogical action and absolutely negative, there's no need for it anywhere or in any way.
06:55In the meantime, let's keep cleaning up, or rather sanding.
06:59By the way, you can see how the cuticle is so raised, thick and inflamed.
07:03In short, it all looks pretty unappealing.
07:06We're refining what we can with the file, and I'm still using a 100-180 grit.
07:12When we're done cleaning up, we degrease the nail and prepare it for coating by applying a dehydrator.
07:18Make sure to do it thoroughly, so that not a single millimetre of the nail is left unattended.
07:24Next, we apply a non-acid primer from the BANDI brand.
07:29It's vitamin enriched and specifically designed for thin, brittle or damaged nails.
07:35And the base coat from the same Vita Baza series, my dehydrator is from the Glow brand.
07:39We'll put all of this under the lamp to cure, and then we'll restore the nail architecture using polygel.
07:46We'll do the same steps with the second finger.
07:51See the hole? It's clear, the shadows go right in.
07:55Unfortunately, nothing can be done right away.
07:59Also, primer dehydrator, the same as the previous one base coat, also from BANDI.
08:04I hope someone is listening, because I'm just tired of writing the same thing in the comments.
08:08Okay, now the polygel.
08:10We just put on a huge blob, a really giant one.
08:13Yes, just this big.
08:16We use brushes, and everyone has their own.
08:19I use an old acrylic brush that's 6 years old.
08:22Honestly, it's probably from ages ago.
08:24You need to moisten it with a degreaser, alcohol or whatever you use.
08:28It doesn't matter, or with a special liquid.
08:31Next, we gently even and smooth it out.
08:33The polygel I'm using is from the brand Tatnail.
08:36It's not the only brand I work with.
08:38I use a lot of different products.
08:40I'm not attached to any brand, since I haven't found a favourite yet.
08:44And honestly, I haven't found any bad polygel either.
08:47That's it.
08:48While working, I saw my blob wasn't enough, so I'm adding more.
08:51I even use the professional slang blob.
08:54We pile on the blob and pat it.
08:56But at least it's clear, right?
08:58At least in Russian they're not unknown words.
09:00So we piled it on, patted it down, and levelled it.
09:04On the surface we get the right shape, but from the side it looks like a little monster.
09:09One more.
09:10Did I step out of the frame?
09:12We pile another little blob like this onto the second nail.
09:15We're using so much material because the nail is pointing really far down, and we need to lift it up.
09:22We smooth near the cuticle, then gently and carefully start pulling it, smoothing out each part in every millimetre.
09:30So that there's less filing on top, then we'll only need to file the bottom and create a small natural
09:36arch from the inside.
09:38The nails are big, so we try to match their shape to the others.
09:43We won't make them perfectly straight, just slightly like this.
09:47With a slight curve, so to speak.
09:50Then we dried all of this for a minute thoroughly because the height is really good, quite decent.
09:56If your lamp isn't strong enough, dry for 2 or 3 minutes to be safe.
10:01Then degrease and use the same 100-180 file.
10:05Start with 100, then use 180.
10:08We file the top.
10:10Following the same steps as before, we continue.
10:13Then turn it over and remove everything underneath.
10:16This is the mess that we don't need.
10:17I was filing there, realized I hadn't dried it enough, so I sent it to dry right in the middle
10:22of filing.
10:23There's nothing wrong with that.
10:24I finished drying it and continued filing.
10:27Now everything is fine there.
10:28Our bit is too thick, so I'm switching to a thinner bit.
10:32I'm working closer to the skin.
10:34Don't forget to pull back the cuticle to avoid touching it.
10:36I'm evening out the length by the middle finger.
10:39I'm comparing the thumb with this file.
10:41Use a centimeter ruler or whatever is convenient.
10:44Some use a piece of nail form.
10:46Oh, I only had a nail file on hand, so I just eyeballed it the way I wanted.
10:51I also worked on the cuticle area with a drill, removed the excess bulk and filed the inside of the
10:57second finger.
10:58Always examine the nail from every angle, tip, right, left, top or side.
11:03As soon as you see the right shape, please make sure it looks as similar as possible to all the
11:08others.
11:10After finishing, brush off dust and degrease.
11:12And then we'll need to even it out a little with the base coat so the nail is smooth and
11:17a bit more voluminous.
11:19Here's our final result.
11:21The nail looks pretty good, the side walls are parallel and it has a slight apex.
11:26I think it turned out really well.
11:29I didn't record the manicure itself this time since there's probably nothing new there.
11:34Just snowflakes, just blue, matte.
11:36By the way, yes, look, see how it's not too close to the cuticle?
11:40Here's the other hand and now here's the second thumb.
11:43You can see it clearly here but that was the best I could do.
11:47I didn't try to get closer or force anything.
11:50Sometimes you must be flexible and rational.
11:53Overall, I think the manicure turned out great.
11:56Thank you so much to everyone who put up with my chatter.
11:59I hope there won't be any silly questions in the comments but if there are, of course I'll try to
12:04answer them.
12:05But still, I hope you'll listen to what I'm saying.
12:08So, I'm saying goodbye to everyone, thank you all very much, goodbye.
12:25See you tomorrow.
12:28Bye.
12:29Bye.
12:32Bye.
Comments