00:00 This is Baskal, a small village hidden in the Azerbaijani mountains.
00:10 Probably you are wondering what I am doing here.
00:13 Well, the Silk Road runs right through this mountain oasis and it's here that a really
00:19 famous local handicraft made with this precious fiber has its origins.
00:29 This charming little village was a key center of the silk weaving industry.
00:33 In the past, almost every Baskal's house practiced silk spinning.
00:38 The main silk handicraft created here, kelagay, is everywhere and this ancient tradition is
00:43 still alive.
00:44 Kelagay, one of the most ancient headdresses in the world, is a symbol of beauty, respect
00:50 and loyalty and it embodies Azerbaijan's culture and traditions.
00:58 This artwork is also recognized by UNESCO as part of the world's intangible cultural heritage.
01:20 Today, a dozen kelagay masters who work in Baskal, I'm going to meet one of them.
01:27 The production of kelagay can take several days.
01:31 Let's try to make one of these famous headscarves.
01:35 Salaam.
01:37 Salaam.
01:40 Abbas Ali has been doing this for more than 45 years.
01:44 His work starts once the fabric is woven with silk threads.
01:48 For decoration, he uses the batik technique, which involves stamping hot walks to prevent
01:53 the dye from transferring to parts of the fabric.
01:58 Each one of these special stencils has its own name and meaning.
02:02 The most common one is the buta.
02:20 It may seem like an easy job, but it requires a certain amount of skill and knowledge.
02:49 Now it's time to color my kelagay.
02:51 Natural dyes are used, derived from sumac, saffron, ginger, onion skin and other herbs.
02:58 Once the color is fixed, it's time to wash out the walks with hot water.
03:08 Then a few minutes of drying and my masterpiece is done.
03:12 I'm so proud of it, but it still needs to pass a test.
03:17 Choksaol.
03:20 So let's see if it's a real one.
03:24 A real kelagay should weigh 125 grams and pass through a ring.
03:30 Yes, it's definitely a real one.
03:37 Choksaol.
03:40 There's another stop on the Great Silk Road that we need to do Sheki.
03:45 As the capital of the powerful Sheki Khanate, the administrative units in the South Caucasus
03:50 that were active during the 19th century, this historical gem still reflects the wealth
03:55 generated by the silk industry in the past.
03:59 Here you can wander in the famous lofty stone caravanserai, a typical inn built to accommodate
04:04 silk traders.
04:08 Or you can admire the private summer residence of the Sheki Khans, designated as a UNESCO
04:13 World Heritage Site with its miniature paintings and shebeke stained glass.
04:21 And if you pass through here, you really need to taste the famous Sheki halva.
04:26 It's a syrupy baked baklava made with layers of rice paper, crushed nuts and secret spices.
04:38 So let's try this Sheki halva.
04:45 It's so good I can really taste the honey inside of it.
04:50 I'm leaving Azerbaijan and bringing a part of it with me.
04:54 And what's more, I did it myself.
04:55 [MUSIC PLAYING]
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